Haikou: Travel like an expert in Haikou, Hainan

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Haikou is the vibrant capital city of Hainan province in China, where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with modern innovations. While TripAdvisor may offer some insights into popular attractions, I realised there are so many amazing gems that the crowdsourcing platform missed (not to mention the mistakes of locations by so many foreigners)!

Let me take you on a journey off the beaten path to discover the lesser-known treasures and insider tips that will make your visit truly unforgettable.

1. Exploring Lava Villages and Caves

If you are going to Leiqiong UNESCO Global Geopark (you MUST, because you will learn how Hainan Island is formed!), then you should also drop by the Lava Villages.

We almost missed this as we could not find much information in English. Even with the travel blogs in English, we had difficulty guessing what it was in Chinese so we could not ask the locals how to get there. Hence I am here to help you; save this blogpost so you can simply show the cab driver this name.

Rong Tang Old Village (熔堂古村)

The Lava village is called because the locals used the lava rocks to build their homes. I highly recommend the Rong Tang Old Village (熔堂古村) which is about 10-12min by cab from the Leiqiong Geopark . You not only get to see the village but also the cave system formed when the lava flowed through.

Once you enter, it is as though you step in time and immerse yourself in the charm of Haikou’s lava villages, where traditional architecture and culture, about 800 years old come to life. The village is quite a maze so it is an amazing experience to wander through narrow alleyways lined with stone houses (for about 50 families) and soak in the serene ambiance of rural life. People still stay in the houses and in fact, we met some school students playing around the village.

Seventy-two lava Caves and Tunnels (七十二洞熔岩隧道)

The entrance of the cave system is just behind the pavilion which sells coconut drinks. There is also another entrance from the village but this is more confusing because we asked a few people and wandered around but got lost!

If you are worried about getting lost in the forest or caves, there is usually a villager stationed at the pavilion who will offer to bring you around and help you take pictures for a tip of 10RMB per person. If he is not there, just wait because he is probably bringing another group around.

The views inside the caves are totally worth it! We almost missed them as we were unsure if we should go in and get lost in them.

Other lava villages

There are other lava villages nearby, including Sanqing Village (三卿村) as well as Rufu Village (儒符村) which I didn’t go to.

2. Entering the Haikou Cloudscape Library (海口云洞图书馆)

Going to libraries may not be like a tourist thing to do but there are so many Instagrammable libraries in China now, it is like a must-go!

Ever dreamed of stepping into a sci-fi novel? Now’s your chance with the Haikou Cloudscape Library (some sites call it the Wormhole Library), a futuristic marvel that defies conventional architecture. The library has this gaudi feel and is super popular with local tourists taking photos inside and outside.

However, getting a visitor’s pass to enter for foreigners is nearly impossible. The best bet is to get a local to do this for you. If you have no China friends, then you will need to go on 海口云洞图书馆‘s wechat and then book a slot. However, you will need a local number and ID. Here are the steps:

The bookings open 1 week before and take note that:

  • Mondays are closed.
  • Opening hours at 10am to 10pm. (If it is the holidays, they may extend opening hours.)
  • Once you have booked a slot, you can come anytime during the day. In other words, you need not select the time.
  • Children under 10 years old are not allowed in the library.

Once inside, prepare to be transported to another dimension as you explore the library’s mind-bending interiors and browse its collection of books from across the galaxy.

3. Capturing the Perfect Shot at Qikou Old Street

For Instagram-worthy photos that capture the essence of Haikou’s rich history, head to Qikou Old Street. To find the best vantage point, venture off the main thoroughfare and explore the maze of alleyways and hidden courtyards.

Here are the popular choices photo spots in Qikou Old Street (which foreigners may not know about):

  • Look Beyond Guesthouse (见外民宿) – This is one of the most popular spots to take photos at the roof top. You can of course stay there or simply buy a drink to get up there. (about RM30). Booking of this guesthouse is only available on trip.com and it is inexpensive (you can $20 when you sign up!).
  • SNT Teahouse (尚南堂) – The teahouse cum restaurant has this Raffles Hotel / TWG Tea vibe. There is a small outdoor seating area too. My only gripe about them was that the staff seemed busy hence were not very clear about the “instructions”. We bought tea and food on their QR self-ordering menu, but they were not clear about the restriction for tea when we ordered food. Even the discount voucher on WeChat did not effect on our phone, even though they say it is automatic.

Explore and climb to the rooftops for panoramic views of the bustling street below, framed by nanyang-style buildings and ornate archways. (We went to one music hostel too to take look and it has a nice balcony.) Remember to bring your camera and strike a pose against the backdrop of this picturesque ancient town.

Indulging in Street Food at Night Markets:

No visit to Haikou is complete without sampling its mouthwatering street food offerings. There are several popular night markets in Haikou with the most popular one being 海大南门夜市 (Haikou University South Gate Night Market)

It seems a little commercialised and you can taste food originating from all over China! My personal take is that the street food at Xitian Temple (西天庙) seems more authentic Hainanese.

Eating Like a Local at 老爸茶 (Lao Ba Cha):

To truly immerse yourself in Haikou’s culinary scene, dine like a local at 老爸茶 (Lao Ba Cha), a beloved eatery known for its authentic Hainanese flavors and laid-back atmosphere. It is basically like Cantonese dim sum and the cultures seemed to have spread to Hainan!

We looked up a few near our hotel in Qikou Old Street and simply walked there. (You can use Google, 小红书 or 大众点评。 I love walking and you can be soaked in the old buildings in the vicinity that are less commercialised.

One of the 老爸茶 we went was Heng Xing Fa (恒兴发). The cafe was quite hidden and not very crowd with less than 10 tables for seats.

There are many 老爸茶 (literal meaning means Dad’s tea) around that seem very good too.

Start your meal with a refreshing glass of iced milk tea, followed by signature dishes such as changfen (our chee cheong fun), carrot cake, and egg tarts. Don’t be afraid to ask for recommendations from the staff or just look at what others are eating! The only con is that the locals may smoke in these “cafes” (Haikou is technically a 3rd-tier city) which may make your breakfast less pleasant.

So there you have it, a glimpse into the hidden gems and local secrets that make Haikou a destination like no other. Whether you’re exploring ancient villages, unlocking the secrets of futuristic libraries, or indulging in street food delights, Haikou promises an adventure filled with discovery and delight at every turn.